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Birdwatching in Bhutan
High in the mysterious and majestic eastern Himalayas, nestled between Tibet and India, lies the small Kingdom of Bhutan, increasingly renowned as one of the Earth’s last precious unspoiled spots. In this magical place, an intact Buddhist culture is integrated into every aspect of daily life, and spectacular mountain scenery provides a backdrop to pristine forests and picturesque valleys. The breathtaking landscape is dotted with fluttering prayer flags, colorful farmhouses amidst terraced fields, and impressive monasteries clinging to impossible cliffs.
"Rhododendron forest home to the Pheasants"
Until recently, Bhutan’s remoteness, steep terrain, and tightly controlled tourism have ensured that its incredible beauty and fascinating people remained a quiet secret known only to a few. Bhutan was closed to outsiders until 1960; its first roads were
built in 1961; and no tourists were officially permitted until 1974. Even today, one is more likely to encounter red-robed monks
than a group of foreigners. Amidst cultural and political upheavals elsewhere in the region, Bhutan is the only remaining intact Himalayan Buddhist kingdom.
"Mountain forest home to Rosefinches"
This shining example of a cultural gem is also a bird-watcher’s paradise. Its moist climate and wide altitudinal range-- from sub-tropical lowlands to arctic-like mountain peaks-- provide an array of climatic conditions and habitats, from tropical jungles to temperate forests and tundra that support over 600 bird species. They include some of the most exotic and rare species in the
eastern Himalayas. Ten species of birds that are in danger of extinction are found in Bhutan, including the Black-necked Crane,
which traditionally winters in the valleys of Phobjikha and Bomdeling. The diversity of bird life in Bhutan is accentuated by the migrations of hundreds of species between breeding grounds across a vast expanse of central Asia and wintering areas on the subcontinent of India.
There is only one road network in Bhutan and hence, there will be some backtracking, especially when we make a diversion from
Trongsa to Zhemgang and then back to continue further to the east.
Electronic map of Bhutan
Tour I
20 Day birdwatching tour to Bhutan
Itinerary
This itinerary begins in Western Bhutan in the valley of Paro where the country’s only airport is located and will take you across the magical Kingdom through Eastern Bhutan and into the Indian State of Assam.
Expect 400 species if trip conducted in Spring and about 300 species during other times.
Note: Black-necked Cranes can be sighted only from late October to mid-March.
Day 1: Arrival in Bhutan.
Arrival in Bhutan
Depart for Paro, Bhutan in the morning on Druk Air, the National Airline of Bhutan. You could fly in from Kolkatta or New Delhi in India, Katmandu – Nepal, Bangkok- Thailand or from Dhaka-Bangladesh.
Upon arrival at Paro Airport, you will be met by your Bhutanese host, a representative of Bhutan Birding & Heritage Travels, who
will drive you to your hotel in Paro. On your drive from the airport to the hotel you may see the Ibisbill, which would easily be mistaken for a stone.
In the afternoon we will explore the beautiful valley of Paro. We will continue birding northwards towards the ruins of the Drukgyel Dzong. The valley of Paro is mainly Blue Pine Forests, which is not so great for bird life but the woodlands around the Drukgyel Dzong area will provide us a good indication of the great variety that is to come in the next three weeks. Some of the common
species that can be seen in this area include, Black-faced Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Common Kestrel, Kalij Pheasant, White-collored Blackbird, Grey-backed Shrike. The more difficult birds that
we will also try are some marshland species such as the elusive Black-tailed Crake and the Solitary Snipe.
Paro: Elevation – 7600 feet; Vegetation – temperate with mainly blue pines.
Overnight in Hotel, Paro.
Day 2: Birding at Chelila pass and evening drive to Thimphu.
It takes about 90 minutes to the Chelila pass and hence we should start early. The road winds upwards through firstly, blue pine forests which slowly changes to higher elevation conifers such as spruce, hemlock, silver fir, juniper and finally at the summit the vegetation is mainly dwarf rhododendrons and open alpine meadows. The pass located at close to 13000 feet is the highest point in Bhutan with motorable roads. If the weather is clear we should get fantastic views of the sacred Mt. Jhomolhari and the adjacent Jichu Drake, both of which are well over 20,000 feet. The pass also offers a breathtaking view of the Haa and Paro valleys. The
quest for the day will be the incredibly majestic Monal Pheasant. Other specialties include, Blood Pheasants, Spotted Laughingthrushes, Himlayan Griffon, White-browed Rosefinch and White-throated Redstarts. During our previous trips, we had Collared Grosbeaks respond to our tape and we shall try and see if we can lure them again. After breakfast at the pass we will work our way back down the road, where should see an assortment of Tit species, Red Crossbills, Kalij Pheasants, Yellow-billed Blue Magpies.
Later in the afternoon we will drive to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan located at 7700 feet.
Vegetation at Chelila pass – pine woodlands and also the only time during the tour where we will be above treeline where the vegetation is mainly alpine scrubs, dwarf rhododendrons (rhododendron cinnabarinum, rho. Lanatum, etc.)
Thimphu Elevation – 7700 feet; vegetation mainly blue pine.
Overnight in Hotel, Thimphu.
"Black-necked Crane"
Day 3: Tango-Cheri valley & Thimphu Sewerage Pond.
Like Paro, the Thimphu valley is relatively dry and is surrounded by blue pine forests. But to the north of the city, the religious valley of Tango and Cheri, the vegetation is mainly evergreen Oak forest. A little before the road end we shall stop at a place with rock-bee hives hanging from a cliff to look out for the rare Yellow-rumped honey guide, which is one of globally threatened birds that is relatively easily found in Bhutan. Other birds such as the Crested Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Spotted
Nutcracker, Oriental Cuckoo, and Large Hawk Cuckoo are quite common. With some luck we may also encounter the beautiful Fire-tailed Myzornis and the Satyr Tragopan, although the latter is more likely to be seen later in our trip.
In the afternoon we shall have some free time to wander around Thimphu City and engage ourselves in some cultural activities. Later in the evening we will visit the Sewerage Treatment Plant where, the enigmatic Ibisbill is quite common along with other shore birds such as Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, White Wagtails, and Brown Dipper. We may even see the elusive Black-tailed Crake, Ruddy-breasted Crake as well as the Common Snipe.
Tango and Cheri area – 8500 feet. Vegetation – temperate evergreen forests with Oak, bamboo and pines.
Overnight in Hotel, Thimphu.
Day 4: Thimphu – Jigme Dorji National Park.
We shall depart early for a full morning birding at the Dochula pass (10000 feet). Here we shall be looking out for high elevation, mixed evergreen and cool-broad leaf forests birds. Only would such colorful birds such as Fire-tailed Myzornis, Red-tailed Minla, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Green-tailed sunbird, etc, match the stunning blossoms of rhododendrons and magnolias that dot the entire hillside. The wailing call of the Hill Partridge can be heard everywhere and should provide us with one of the challenges of the morning. The temperate broadleaved forest of rhododendrons and magnolias will soon give way to a semi-tropical zone where banana and orange trees, and cactuses grow in abundance. Species to look out for are: Eurasian Treecreeper, Golden Bush-Robin, Niltavas, Eurasian Jay, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Plain-backed Thrush, Great Barbet and perhaps even the rare Ward’s Trogon. The sudden appearance of low elevation species such as Red-vented Bulbuls and Common Myna is a reminder of the astonishing diversity of Bhutan within such short distances. Here the vegetation is mainly Chirpine. We shall spend the rest of the day looking for any migrant waterfowl such
as Ruddy Shelduck that may still be enjoying the peace of Bhutan. Today will also be our first attempt to look out for the extremely rare White-bellied Heron. Your host in Bhutan has been responsible for initiating the survey of this rare bird through the goodwill of one of their generous clients from their International Crane Foundation trip of November 2002. Since then the heron nest has been regularly sighted, the first since 1929. Through very rare elsewhere, the heron has been regularly sighted along the Po Chu (river). During the non breeding season it is quite easy to spot this bird. But as our visit coincides with the start of its nesting time, it may not be as easily sighted. Another rare bird, we may get, as a bonus while looking for the White-bellied Heron is the Palla’s
Fish Eagle.
Tonight we will be camping in the forest of the Jigme Dorji National Park, the largest park in Bhutan in an area, which according to the authors of the Birds of Bhutan (Tim & Carol Inskipp), is one of the richest bird habitats per unit area.
Docula area – elevation – 10,000 feet; vegetation – mixed evergreen and broad-leafed forests(with rhododendrons and magnolias).
Camp Area – elevation – 4500 feet; vegetation warm broad- leaved forests. Overnight in tented camp, JDN Park.
Day 5: Trashithang and Damji Area.
The pre-breakfast birding will be around our camp, where the vegetation is mainly warm broadleaved forest. We have often sighted a pair of tawny fish owls perched on the tree along the roadside and hence we MUST start early before any vehicles pass by. It is also around this area that a pair of Red-headed Trogons have often been sighted. We shall also continue our quest for the globally threatened White-bellied Heron. It is very imperative that all group members are always alert as the birds in Bhutan often move in huge mixed flocks and identifying the assortments of warblers is always challenging and yet great fun. Besides, we may also
encounter some mammals such as Takin, which is the national animal of Bhutan, leopards and wild boars.
The newly constructed road towards the village of Damji has not really been explored and who knows what may be in store for us. We may find some species that may never have been reported in the region earlier. Later in the evening we will drive to Punakha and if you wish we may consider a visit to the majestic Punakha Dzong and then drive towards the Wangdue district where we will be spending the night in a hotel.
Overnight in Hotel, Wangdue.
"Green-tailed Sunbird"
Day 6: Wangdi– Pele la.
Today we shall drive to Phobjikha with the hope of seeing some black-necked cranes still in residence. Phobjikha located at an elevation of 10000 feet is a glacial valley and is the biggest wetland in Bhutan. It is the winter home to about 350 black-necked cranes that arrive here in late October and start migrating back to Tibet by early March. Though unlikely, it is still possible that we may see a few cranes still lingering around. Because of the presence of the cranes, Phobjikha is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the Kingdom. By the time of your trip we would have confirmation on the presence of the cranes and if they are not in residence we would spend more time birding along the road. Specialties we may encounter today include, three species of Parrotbills (Black-throated, Brown and Great), Brown and Red-headed Bullfinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-eared
Shrike-babbler, Black-faced warbler, Scarlet Finch, Collared-Grosbeak, Fired-tailed Myzornis, Kalij & Monal pheasants.
Pele-la pass – elevation – 11300 feet; vegetation – sub-alpine conifers and bamboo.
Overnight in tented camp at Pele la pass or at hotel in Phobjikha.
Day 7: Phobjikha – Camp en route to Zhemgang.
We shall leave our hotel very early to get to the Pele la. It would take us close to an hour of driving to get there. Monal
pheasants as well as Satyr Trogopan are a distinct possibility but the bird that we will be after this morning is the Great Parrotbill, which is a bamboo specialty. After breakfast, it will mainly be a driving day with occasional birding stops. From the Pele La pass, we start down into central Bhutan. The drive is very scenic and the Bhutanese film “Travelers’ and Magicians” was shot along this road.
Nearly an hour before we reach there on the winding road, we’ll have our first glimpse of the Trongsa Dzong across the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu gorge. Built atop the crest of a narrow ridge, it is, without doubt, the most spectacularly sited dzong in all of Bhutan. It’s perched so far above the river that the clouds frequently float below it. From Trongsa we continue southwards until we reach the bottom of the valley and then again ascend to at elevation of about 6500 feet where we shall camp at Wangdigang for the night. Almost all the birding tours never camp at Wangdigang, which is about 8 miles before the town of Zhemgang, but we
have always been planned a night here before continuing to the regular camp at Tingtibi, even though there isn’t a proper camping area, mainly for the incomparable Beautiful Nuthatch. We’ve had 100% success so far in the quest of this exquisite Nuthatch.
We will be covering a huge altitudinal range during today’s drive and hence covering quite a diverse vegetation types. The elevation at Wangdigang is about 6500 and the vegetation is mainly evergreen broad-leaved forests and open habitats.
Overnight in Camp en route to Zhemgang.
Day 8 & Day 9: Birding along Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road.
During these two days, we will be birding along the Zhemgang-Tingtibi road. The main quest during these two days will be the very rare and much sought after Beautiful Nuthatch. Other specialties would include the Fire-tailed Myzornis, Cutia, Sultan Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, several species of Laughingthrushes, Fulvettas, Rufous-breasted Bush-Robin, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, White-browed and Black-headed Shrike Babblers, Black-eared Shrike Babblers, Green Shrike Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Gray
Peacock Pheasant, Red-headed Trogon, several species of Cuckoos, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Pintailed Green Pigeon, White-browed Piculet, Scarlet Finches, etc. The Rufous-necked Hornbill is also a distinct possibility. During one of our tours of 2004, we infact had two species of Hornbills, the Rufous-necked and the Great Indian, perched together on the same branch of a tree. Besides birds, the endemic Golden Langur is also very common here. In fact, our campsite is right in the middle of this rare primate’s range.
Elevation at camp – 2000 feet and but we will be exploring mixed broad-leaved evergreen forests at elevations between 8000 and 2000 feet.
Overnight in camp, Tingtibi.
"Juvenile male Satyr Tragopan"
Day 10: Tingtibi – Trongsa.
After some early morning birding we shall reluctantly back track to Trongsa for the night for a well-deserved hot shower and a night in a proper bed. Trongsa – elevation 7000 feet.
Overnight in Hotel, Trongsa.
Day 11: Trongsa - Ura.
Above Trongsa the road climbs through many switchbacks, and then it passes through a misty forest of Silver Firs and bamboo on the way to Yotong La (11234 ft). The drive through magnificent rhododendron and magnolia forest is simply breathtaking. White-browed Fulvettas, Grey crested Tits, Coal Tits, gangs of White-throated Laughingthrush are fairly common. The elusive Fulvous Parrotbill is also a distinct possibility. The Gold-naped Finch has also been spotted here. Once we cross the Yotong La pass, the vegetation is mainly Spruce and Silver Fir forest with plenty of bamboo undergrowth. As we descend further, it then changes to Blue Pine forest
and hence the birdlife is not especially diverse. Strangely, Bumthang is the only district in Bhutan where you find the Black-billed Magpie—nothing really exciting about that but something to take note of nonetheless. We shall spend some time exploring the Bumthang town, which resembles a cowboy town of the Wild West. Later in the afternoon we shall drive further east to the beautiful alpine valley of Ura. Ura (elevation 10000 feet) is a large, compact, and-- since the advent of potato farming-- quite wealthy agricultural village with an attractive temple and cobblestone “streets.” Beautiful Rosefinch, White-browed Rosefinch, Red-billed Chough, Spotted Nutcracker, Russet Sparrows, Black-billed Magpie and Rufous-breasted Accentor are some of the rather common birds that can be seen foraging in the open fields.
Ura – elevation 10,000 feet; vegetation – sub-alpine and open habitats.
Overnight in Camp or farmhouse, Ura.
Day 12: Ura – Sengor.
We leave early in the morning before the flow of traffic ( passing about 10-20 vehicles in the entire day is considered rush hour along this road) begins with the hope of catching some of the most beautiful pheasants of the Himalayas, feeding along the road. It is not uncommon to see flocks of up to 30 or more Blood Pheasants feeding by the roadside. If lucky we should also see Monal
Pheasant as well as the Satyr Tragopan. Flocks of Snow Pigeon have also been frequently sighted flying across the valley or foraging in the farmlands. Near Gyazamchu, in a small wetland along the crystal clear mountain stream, three Woodsnipes were sighted during our previous trips and we shall check out the site again.
The vegetation during this drive is mainly cool broadleaf and fir forest. The beauty of the landscape against the backdrop of brightly colored rhododendrons in full blossom is unmatched. Near the Thrimsingla pass at 12500 feet is an in-situ rhododendron garden, which has over 20 species of rhododendrons, six of which are endemic to Bhutan. Here we shall check out for the gorgeous Fire-tailed Sunbird and other forest birds such as: Rufous-georgetted and Ultramarine Flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava,
Red-headed Bullfinch, Collared-Grosbeak, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian Treecreepers, and a variety of Tit species. From the pass it is another hour to the beautiful alpine village of Sengor. We shall camp a little further down from the village, which is the prime Satyr Tragopan habitat. Besides the Tragopan, other mouth-watering species reported in this area include the Bar-winged Wren Babbler and the Spotted Laughingthrush.
Sengor – elevation - 9000 feet
Overnight in tented camp, Sengor.
"Streaked Spider Hunter"
Days 13, 14, 15: Yongkhola.
The road along this stretch from a pass at 12000 feet meters to just less than a 3000 feet, is considered to be amongst the best birding circuits in Asia. During our three days here we will explore the wonderfully rich, subtropical, warm and cool, broad-leaved forests along the lower section of this road (2000 to 8000 feet). The specialties of this area are; Ward’s and Red-headed Trogon, Scimitar Babblers; Parrotbills, Rufous-necked Hornbill, an assortment of Warblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Hill Partidges, Satyr Trogopan, Speckled Wood Pigeon, Sultan and Yellow-cheeked Tits, varieties of Bulbuls, 3 species of Tesias (Chestnut-headed, Slaty-bellied & Grey-bellied), Flycatchers, Laughingthrushes, etc.
We will be camping for the first two nights and for the 3rd night we will drive to Mongar (90 minutes) where we will be staying in a Hotel en route to Yongkola.
Camp – elevation – 6000 feet.
Overnight in camp (2 nights at Yongkhola), one night in Hotel, Mongar.
Day 16: Mongar – Trashigang-Rongthong.
A few miles from the hotel in Mongar will bring us to the Korilla pass (2300 meters) where the vegetation is mixed broad-leaved evergreen forests. The expected birds here are Siberian stonechat, Rufus-bellied Niltava, Ward’s Trogon, Gold-naped Finch, Maroon-backed Accentors, etc. We will then proceed towards the town of Trashigang, which used to be the biggest town in Eastern Bhutan until it has recently been overtaken by Mongar. Our drive will take us through the famous Yadi curves, which is a series of switchbacks passing through the village of Yadi through Chir Pine forest, corn fields and banana groves. Once we have descended to the valley floor the road follows the opposite direction of the Dangme chu river. At Chazam we turn right over the bridge and climb upwards to the town of Trashigang. We shall spend some time at Trashigang and if you wish we can visit the superbly located Dzong, which was built in 1659. Later in the afternoon we shall drive to Rongthong, where we had once spotted a Spot-bellied Eagle Owl very close to our campsite (7000 feet).
Camp- elevation 7000 feet; open habitat.
Overnight in camp, Rongthong.
Day 17: Rongtong– Morong (Camp).
Prior to breakfast we shall scan the rice fields near our camp for the elusive Black-tailed Crake. In addition we may also see some Cuckoos. Our drive today passes is mainly through settlements including Bhutan’s primer institute – Sherubtse College. Even then we should some gorgeous birds such as Scarlet Finches, Black-headed and White-browed Shrikebabblers, Emerald Cuckoos, Crested Serpent Eagles, etc. Today’s drive will also take us through some fantastic broad-leaved forests and we will also be passing our last high point of our tour at about 9000 feet meters from where we will get great views of ridge after ridge of the Himalayan hills before it descends to the plains. Our camp at Morong is at approximately 5000 feet.
Day 18: Morong area – Samdrup Jongkhar.
Our quest for the day in this moist broad-leaved forest will be the Cochoa. During one of our tours of 2006, a Green Cochoa just popped up on the roadside while we were trying to lure a pair of Blue-winged Laughingthrush out of the thicket. Other specialties include the Long-tailed Broadbill, Gray Peacock Pheasant, Red-billed Leiothrix, etc. The mytical Blyth’s Trogopan has been reported along this stretch of road and the hunt is on for every birding tour to be the first to sight it. As we drive further down the vegetation is sub-tropical and corresponding species like the Hill Myna, Wreathed Hornbill, Long-tailed Sibia, etc. should be expected.
Later in the evening we will proceed to the town of Samdrup Jongkhar for a night in the hotel.
Overnight in Hotel, Samdrup Jongkhar.
Day 19: Samdrup Jongkhar.
Since the town is right at the border with India, we will drive back into Bhutan and explore the sub-tropical forest above Samdrup Jongkhar. We should encounter several species of Cuckoos, Black-naped Monarch, Crimson Sunbird, Asian Fairy-bluebird, Red-collared Dove, Dollarbird, Red-headed Trogon,Wreathed and Great Hornbill, etc. The globally threatened Blyth’s Kingfisher has also been found in this region.
Overnight in Hotel, Samdrup Jongkhar.
Samdrupjongkhar –elevation 900 feet, vegetation mainly sub-tropical.
Day 20: Samdrup Jongkhar – Guwahati.
After some last minute early morning birding in Bhutan, you will bid goodbye to your Bhutanese crew, and proceed to Guwahati airport for onward departure to either Delhi or Kolkatta. Some of the birds that you may encounter during this 2-3 hour drive are Greater
and Lesser Adjutants, Eurasian Crane, Asian Openbill, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, etc.
20 Days tour price is: 2 pax is US$5070 per person. 4 pax US$4410 per person.
Convert your tour cost into your currency of choice.
Payments:
Payments must be made in advance in order for your visa application to be approved by the Department of Tourism(US$ 20) and trip is subject to availability of the guide.
A visa will be stamped upon arrival, but the approval will have to be obtained beforehand. I will obtain the clearance for which the following details will have to be supplied to me. Name as in passport, date of birth, place of birth, occupation, address, nationality, passport no., date of issue and validity. The government will only approve the visa application if the application is accompanied with the full tour payment. That's why the full payments must be made in advance.
Included:
Full board and lodging in Department of Tourism approved standard hotels and full camping arrangements wherever hotels unavailable, government taxes, services of an English speaking local guide, ground transport, entry fees, permits.
Excluded:
Alcoholic drinks, laundry bills, tips.
Notes.
The above birding itineraries are based on what are essentially popular routes for birders and the recommended season is March-May. It can be shortened or extended.
Minimum lead time depends on the season. In the Spring season at least 2-3 months. At other times about 3 weeks.
To check availability for tours on short notice, fill out “Request for Quote” form with desirable dates.
All the date of itineraries include arrival and departure dates. As there is only one airline (Druk Air) that operates in Bhutan, securing seats is the biggest bottleneck and hence it is recommended that you book your trip as early as possible. Otherwise the
trip can be arranged within a matter for three weeks.
Bhutan is also a cultural hotspot and for the not so keen birders in the group, there will always be something other than birding to keep them interested.
Hotels depend on how far in advance the trip is booked. Most hotels in Bhutan have only about 20 rooms and availability really depends on the season, but we always book the best available in the locality. The standards are quite basic in some places in the east.
Fitness: Bhutan is a country of huge altitudinal ranges within very short distances. For example within a matter of few hours you
can experience various climatic conditions and hence layered clothing is recommended. I use a 10 x 42 binoculars, which is perfect but you may want to bring a standby by 8 x 40. This is especially handy as many of the birds will be quite close by in very dense
forest. Most of the birding will be along the road and hence top physical condition is not required but because of the
unavailability of hotel accommodation at all places, you must be prepared to rough it out a little.
Should you only need a guide for a day or two please contact us for details.
 |
Hishey Tshering, your local Birdingpal guide I worked with the country's only environmental NGO, Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN) and am currently a board member of RSPN. While at RSPN, I was involved with the first banding project of the black-necked cranes to study their migration route. I worked very closely with the International Crane Foundation and was also instrumental in starting the White-bellied Heron project in Bhutan. We do not depend on foreign guides, and feel very competent in leading our bird tours as we know where the birds are. In addition to myself I have a group of very competent guides, who are perhaps more knowledgeable. In addition to guiding I am passionate about soccer and am the President of a local soccer club, Druk Star FC. |
Hishey and his team guided my group on a three week birding trip in Bhutan in 2006. We had a wonderful time and thoroughly enjoyed both the birding and the company. Hishey's knowledge of Bhutanese birds and his abilities to find even the most elusive species cannot be praised highly enough. His professionalism in catering for the needs of his clients, his dedication to nature conservation in Bhutan, and his open, friendly nature are but some of the attributes that make Hishey an excellent guide. We saw nearly all the birds special to Bhutan during our stay and were very well looked after. I can certainly recommend Hishey's services as a guide to anyone planning a birding trip to Bhutan and doubt that better value for money can be found elsewhere.
Allan Drewitt, UK. allanATlogrunner.plus.com
After our first trip to Bhutan in 2001 we knew that we would be back. That first trip was in April to catch the birds singing and the great display of wild rhododendron blossoms. We assumed that the black-necked cranes would have left their wintering grounds in the Phobjikha Valley but wanted to see this little piece of Shangri-la anyway. To our astonishment my wife Birgit discovered one lone crane.
However, we fell in love with Bhutan, not only because of its richness and beauty but because of its "small is beautiful" principles. The 20th century has seen tragic destruction of natural heritage and human heritage. Bhutan seems to be successful in cherishing that which is most precious in both of these areas. This accounts for the variety and richness to the eye of the visitor. Birgit and I are both artists and photographers and Bhutan served up an unsurpassed banquet for our eyes.
Our second trip in 2005 was organized by (Hishey, of Bhutan Heritage Travels) for maximum abundances of experiences each day. Although circumstances allowed only a brief stay we were more than satisfied. We went in February to catch the main wintering population of cranes but even so we saw and heard plenty of birds including the Monal pheasant. We spent two nights in the elegant, traditional style hotel in the Phobjikha Valley and a miracle happened, at least from the point of view of artists/photographers. It snowed! The landscape was transformed into a Middle Ages European scene reminiscent of Breughel's Return From the Hunt with yaks thrown in for a bonus. We ended the trip with no complaints and only praise for this unique and charming country and for Bhutan Heritage Travels that took such good care of us, physically, intellectually and spiritually.
Robert Bateman – Artist/Author – Salt Spring Island, Canada.
Hishey Tshering is a long time Birdingpal guide, well known in his own country and by myself or birders from around the world.
Knud Rasmussen
Birdingpal
Some facts about Bhutan.
Nestled in the Eastern Himalayas, sandwiched between the Tibetan region of China in the north and the Indian states of Sikkim, Arunanchal Pradesh and West Bengal in the West, East and the south, lies a mysterious and breathtakingly beautiful Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan, which is about the size of Switzerland. It is often referred to the outside world as the last “Shangri La”. The inhabitants themselves call it “Druk Yul”, the land of the peaceful dragon. The Kingdom’s low population and its wise and farsighted leadership have propelled Bhutan into the 21st Century with much of its natural heritage intact and its unique culture undiluted.
BHUTAN AT GLANCE.
Location Longitude 88 45’ and 92 10’ East.
Latitude 26 45’ and 28 15’North.
Total Area 38,398 square kms.
110 miles- North to South.
200 miles- East to West.
Terrain: It can be divided into three major geographic regions from North to South: the high Himalayas of the North, the hills and valleys of the Central and the foothills and plains of the South.
Forest Area: 72.5 per cent of the land area.
Cultivated Area: 7.8 per cent of total land.
Altitude: 490 feet above sea level in the South to over 24,735 feet above sea level in the North.
Climate: The country can be divided into three distinct climatic zones corresponding broadly to the three main geographical divisions.The southern belt has a hot, humid climate while central Bhutan has a cool temperate climate.The northern region has severe alpine climate and is perpetually under snow.Rainfall can differ within relatively short distances due to rain shadow effects.
NATURAL RESOURSES.
Minerals: Dolomite, limestone, gypsum, slate, coal, talc, marble, zinc, lead, copper, tungsten, quartize.
Crops: Rice, maize, wheat, potato, millet, buckwheat, orange, apple, cardamom.
Hydropower: According to survey reports the potential is 30,000MW.
Population: 634,982.
Males: 52.5 per cent.
Female: 47.5 per cent.
(2005 Estimate).
Urban population: 30.9 per cent.
Rural population: 69.1 per cent.
Population density: 16 persons per sq. km.
GDP (2000): US $ 1320.9.
HISTORY.
Kingdom of Bhutan is said to have been inhabited as far back as 1500 BC but the recorded history started only from the 7th century onwards. Since most of the original history records have been destroyed by fire, earthquake etc., what we have today is based on the reports from the British explorer, on folklores from the older citizens, and on some well preserved written texts such as biographies of some famous monks. However, in Bhutan, history is interlaced with religion, in which Buddhism dictates the daily life.
GEOGRAPHY.
Bhutan measures about 110 miles from north to south and 200 miles from east to west, encompassing 38,398 square kilometers.
Bhutan is divided into three major geographic regions: High Himalayas in the north, the hills and the valleys in the centre and the southern foothills and the plains.
CLIMATIC ZONES.
Bhutan’s great range in altitude from 490 feet to 24,735 feet and topography produces a wide range of climatic conditions. The dominant factor influencing climate is the monsoon airstream that blows north from the Bay of Bengal in India. This brings heavy rainfall to the foothills and to exposed slopes and valleys further north, especially from June to September. Bhutan can be divided into three climatic zones: subtropical, mid-montane and alpine.
PEOPLE.
Bhutan has a population of 634,982 people and 69.1% of the people live in the rural areas.
Bhutan is a rich mosaic of cultures, lifestyles, languages and belief systems. In a country with a population of just over half a million, as many as 19 different dialects and few languages are spoken. This is attributed to the fact that in the past, Bhutanese communities settled in the valleys with limited communication. It is for the same reason that the sense of individuality and independence emerges as strong characteristics of the people.
The Bhutanese are, by nature, physically strong and fiercely independent with an open and ready sense of humor. Hospitality is an in-built social value in Bhutan. People wear colorful dresses; the men wear a Goh, a long robe tied around the waist by a slim fabric belt, or Kera. Kira, the main garment of women is an ankle length wrap- around dress secured by a belt around the waist, and fastened at the shoulders with silver brooches called Koma.
There is no rigid class system in Bhutan and social and educational opportunities are not affected by rank or birth. Bhutanese women enjoy equal rights with men. Both men and women are free to choose their partners for marriage and both can initiate a divorce. Monks are held in great respect and play an active part in community life. Representatives of the monk body are present at all important occasions. In the past, it was common for one son from each family to enter the monastic order, a custom that is less prevalent today.
The people consist of three main ethnic groups: People from the western part of the kingdom are called Ngalongpas. They originally are the descendants of the Tibetan immigrants who start settling in Bhutan back in the 9th century AD. The eastern Bhutanese are referred to as sharchopas, which simply means people from the east. They are believed to be the original inhabitants of Bhutan. The people in the south are known as Lhotshampas. They are the descendants of the Nepali immigrants who moved to Bhutan in the 19th century. We also have Bumthangpas, Mangdepas and Khenpas in the central region, the nomadic tribe of Layaps, Lunnaps, Linzhips, Narops and Soeps in the far north, eastern tribe of Merak and Sakten and to the south the Doyaps and Lepchas.
ECONOMY.
Although significant economic progress has taken place since 1960’s, the majority of the population remains dependent on agriculture for income and employment. The national per capita income is USD 1320.9. With the high precipitation and an altitude variation of up to 24,735 feet, water resources are abundant in Bhutan. While the difference in altitude provides many possibilities for hydropower generation, the main rivers are generally deeply incised and irrigated agriculture is limited to areas served by gravity from small perennial streams. The power Master plan estimates that the country has potential to generate as much as 30,000 MW of electricity. As local requirements are still modest, the major share of the energy produced will be exported representing a large part of Bhutan’s total export revenue. We see the export of electricity as the key to gaining economic independence from foreign donors. Our government’s policy is that the future backbone of our economy will be hydropower. It is our largest resource and is sustainable, renewable and environmentally friendly.
However, at the end of the year, the development of the country is not measured by the GNP but by GNH (Gross National Happiness).
EDUCATION.
60% of the people are literate and unemployment rate is only 3.1%. Until 1950’s, people traveled to India for modern education and to Tibet for monastic education. Now with the total number of 512 schools we have, literacy rate is increasing.
ARTS and CRAFTS.
The most exciting and vital aspect of the Bhutanese tradition and heritage are found in its arts and crafts. Much of Bhutan’s spiritual and intellectual life is manifested through its arts and crafts. Bhutanese arts are not primarily concerned with abstract concepts of ‘beauty’ (that may appeal to few), but with interpretation of values and beliefs that are held by the vast majority and which embody the eternal stream of life or consciousness. It is a subjective process deeply imbued with a strong sense of morality, with many art forms epitomizing the eternal struggle between forces of good and evil.
Bhutanese art and crafts, particularly those that are religious in their thematic content follow strict iconographic rules. Merit can be earned only if the prescribed rules are strictly followed. The use of creative energy is used mostly in secular artistic ventures. Zorig Chosum or the 13 aspects of Bhutanese arts and crafts includes shinzo (woodwork), dozo (stonework), jinzo (clay crafts), lugzo (bronze casting), parzo (wood, slate and stonecarving), lhazo (painting), shagzo (wood turning), garzo (blacksmithy), troeko (sliver and goldsmithy), tsharzo (bamboo and cane crafts), dhezo (papermaking), thagzo (weaving) and tshemzo (tailoring and embroidery).
The skill of Bhutan’s craftsmen, working with bronze silver and other fine metals, is seen in myriad ways: statues of deities, doors and pillars of temples, bells, trumpets, swords, tables, candlesticks, rice boxes and jewelry. Wooden crafts include a wealth of items from bowls too finely worked bamboo hats, baskets, butter containers, and bows and arrows.
RELIGION.
The Vajrayana branch of Mahayana Buddhism is followed by 80% of the population of Bhutan and is the state religion, while Hinduism, predominant among the people of southern Bhutan, covers 20% of the population. The law of Bhutan allows any religion to be practiced freely but proselytizing in banned.
Bhutan is the only independent Mahayana Buddhist country in the world today. It is generally thought that Buddhism was initiated in Bhutan around the 7th century A.D., when the first two temples Kichu Lhakhang in Paro, western Bhutan, and Jampa Lakhang in Bumthang, central Bhutan, were built in the first half of the 7th century.
The major growth of Buddhism in Bhutan started in the 8th century A.D with the visit of Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. His teachings laid the foundation for one of the most important and unifying forces in the development of Bhutan’s unique cultural and religious tradition.
From the 13th century on, many religious masters came to Bhutan to propagate the teachings of their schools such as Sakyapa, Drukpa Kagyupa, Chazampa, Kathogpa and Nyingmapa. Many of these schools were able to establish only small temples, and in the course of time they merged with other schools. Today, the Drukpa Kagyupa and the Nyingmapa are the two most prominent.
Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (1594-1651), who unified Bhutan into one single state and built many of the Dzongs (fortresses), codified the teachings and traditions of Buddhism now followed in Bhutan. He introduced the dual system of law and started the monastic system. He passed away in 1651 saying that He was going into a very deep retreat. He appointed two of His close disciples as the head of the Religious and Secular affairs.
More facts about Bhutan.
Guide books and CD’s recommended:
1. Birds of Bhutan – Carol Inskipp, Tim Inskipp & Richard Grimmett.
2. Birds in Bhutan – Peter Spierenburg.
3. Bhutan (Lonely Planet) – Stan Armington.
4. Bhutan –A trekker’s Guide – Bart Jordans.
5. A Field Guide to the Mammals of Bhutan- Tashi Wangchuk.
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Bird Recordings from Bhutan
CD of Bhutan Bird Calls – not yet released but many calls available with guide
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